The pop up of pop ups – truly amazing

This has been a very busy weekend, so much so that my fit bit which I only bought for the sleep function, has imploded. I dont need the walking counting steps function, I play Pokemon Go for goodness sake, indeed I have just reclaimed my first gym – sorry stepson Ben mwahahaha.

However what a delight I had on Friday night to go to what turned out to be a 14 course meal for £65 in a pop up in Inkpen. The chefs were Oliver Dollard and Rory Dyson. Olly has been in Paris for a while working in the renowned Salt with Daniel Morgan who worked at Noma among other places. This influence came through and they both gave an excellent interview for my Kennet Radio slot. Both Olly and Rory were a delight to interview but even better to eat from. Apologies for calling them the wrong names during the interview.

Without a doubt you need to track these chefs down, you will be hearing so much more about them in the future and not just from me. OLLY AND RORY – don’t forget I told you first.

Probably best if I don’t describe every dish, put it like this, we didn’t get home until 2 although it was well worth it. I will give you, my darling reader, a description of a few.


Ok the pre starter of tea of english summer berries, soft herbs and toasted buckwheat, very strange taste but in a good way


One of my favourite dishes the razor clam tartar


Also magnificent, Palourdes with green peppercorn and seaweed, an unexpected heat


Such an amazing dish – tender, juicy monkfish cheeks in leek ash tempura with a pickled shiso aioli





There you go all three together, the house cured duck with fenugreek, celeriac taco with brined onioin burrata and venison hearts alongside summer seeds and honey flatbread, rabbit rillete and pickled gooseberry, inspired


Happy eaters – Sam Ferguson who was at school with Olly and Tony, my OH


One of our favourite dishes, octopus, iced fennel, romesco and lemon puree. An incredible sight to see and taste


OK i have to be honest here, it was so hard to be picky but this didn’t hit the top ten though was still great, slow poached hen egg, burnt pea shell and lovage dashi, english legumes and parmesan fondue


Divided, I loved this, it was the elderflower vinegar bavarois, pickled cucumber, almond milk and cucumber granita


The hay roasted guinea fowl, malt brioche, caramelised yeast, heritage carrots and hops. Perfectly cooked and tender


Mandarin sorbet, darjeeling tea cream, marmalade and toast meringue. By now I was stuffed but still managed to stuff it down


Olly looking relieved but very tired


Hay ice cream, caramelised katafli, fresh thyme and baked apple, a treat for the eyes and the palate



A lot of stunning food for a very cheap price. There is absolutely no doubt that this was an amazing menu, there was food there that excited me in a strange internal way. Indeed I even saw Tony do that face (no not THAT face) while he was eating the monk cheeks. It is a face that requires eyes closed to concentrate on the fabulosity of the taste sensation.


Nothing to do with the food but hey isnt my grandaughter cute, we got back from the tasting menu at 2.30am then cut up a suckling pig and brined it and some short ribs for the next days pizza oven inauguration at which I didnt cook my suckling grandaughter jennifer, this wasnt an easy thing to do as she is still milk fed, so plump but her eyes make her stop her, oh and of course it isnt politically correct.

As an aside just compare this with my next review of the Angel, oh my, so sad, when Olly and Rory next do a pop up I will be there shouting for them and loving the food.

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